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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.